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By Dr. Brittany Oliver, M.D., F.A.A.D.
Peptides aren’t exactly the new kid on the block when it comes to skincare ingredients. With a steady increase in popularity over the last two years, peptides have made their way into more and more anti-aging products—and many beauty enthusiasts and skin experts agree that the benefits of peptides in skincare are worthy of our attention.
But what are peptides exactly, and what are they supposed to do for our skin? If you’ve been curious, let me, a board-certified dermatologist, break down the science behind peptides and why you may want to incorporate them into your skincare regimen.
You can think of peptides as the building blocks of proteins, which are formed by chains of different combinations of amino acids. The thousands of naturally occurring peptide molecules in our bodies serve various signaling functions to maintain homeostasis, or balance, within our system.
In the skin, peptides make up collagen, elastin, and keratin—all examples of proteins that play important roles in maintaining support and structure within our skin. As we age, we lose collagen and elastin, resulting in a loss of the support and structure our skin needs to preserve its healthy, youthful appearance. This leads to dullness, fine lines, and wrinkles, visible textural changes, decreased firmness…you get the picture.
Peptides are a popular skincare ingredient for their purported ability to absorb easily into the skin and carry out a variety of functions, including reducing signs of premature aging. To understand how peptides work, let’s take a step back and delve into the physiology of skin aging.
Skin contains fibroblasts, specialized cells responsible for the formation of our skin’s extracellular matrix (ECM). The ECM is a complex and dynamic organizational structure that constitutes over 70% of our skin’s dry weight and is responsible for skin regeneration. When the ECM degrades due to the breakdown of collagen and elastin, visible signs of aging occur.
Topical application of peptides formulated for skincare helps enhance collagen and elastin production by stimulating these fibroblasts via complex signaling cascades, which, in turn, helps combat cellular aging that occurs as we get older. And this isn’t all theoretical—several studies demonstrate peptides’ ability to improve the appearance of facial lines and increase skin smoothness and firmness.
Products containing peptides may offer the following benefits:
Different peptides serve different functions within the skin. That’s why many products utilize more than one peptide within the same formulation. There are four main groups of peptides used in cosmetics:
Each group works via a different pathway to exert its anti-aging effects.
Signal peptides are the most commonly used peptides in skincare. They serve to send messages, or signals, to the skin to boost the production of collagen, elastin, and other important proteins.
Carrier peptides bring trace minerals like copper to the skin. We have known for decades that copper is critical for the synthesis of mature, functional collagen. (Fun fact: copper complexes also combat the appearance of photoaging by lightening age spots!)
Enzyme inhibitor peptides slow down the natural loss of collagen that happens over time.
Neurotransmitter peptides smooth the appearance of fine lines by blocking nerve signals involved in muscle contraction. Know where else neurotransmitter peptides are found? Injectable neurotoxins like Botox! In fact, many have likened neurotransmitter peptides in skincare to “topical Botox.”
Before you get too excited, it’s important to note that a topical product likely won’t produce nearly the same degree of muscle relaxation as an injectable neurotoxin simply because it can’t penetrate the skin as deeply—Botox and other neurotoxins (Dysport, Xeomin) still reign supreme on that front.
So, where in the skincare aisle should you start when searching for ways to incorporate a peptide-containing product? You’ll likely get the most benefit by reaching for a leave-on product such as a moisturizer, serum, or eye cream.
Multitasking products are the way to go. Peptides work well with most other ingredients commonly found in moisturizers. Look for one with other beneficial ingredients like hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, squalane, and vitamin B5.
The Olay Regenerist Collagen Peptide 24 Hydrating Moisturizer contains a patented, ultra-small micropeptide to promote superior absorption.
For a concentrated product, you can layer under moisturizer or consider a serum. DERMA E Advanced Peptides & Collagen Serum and Sympli Beautiful Age Refining Facial Oil both harness the power of multiple peptides in their formulas.
For the delicate undereye area, consider an eye cream packed with vitamins and peptides, like the CosRx Advanced Snail Mucin Peptide Eye Cream, which contains five different peptides. The Neutrogena Peptide Multi Action Eye Cream is another well-rounded option, containing two different peptides as well as B, C, and E vitamins to help brighten and de-puff under the eyes.
If you want to unwind and treat yourself to a little extra pampering, try a peptide-based sheet mask like the Collagen Peptide Vital Beauty Mask by Mary & May or the Lapcos Collagen Beauty Firming Sheet Mask.
An article on peptides in the beauty world wouldn’t be complete without mention of oral collagen supplements. I am often asked about anti-aging dietary supplements and whether they are worth the money, so let’s spend some time talking about ingestible oral peptide supplements.
Collagen supplements are a controversial topic in the field of dermatology due to a lack of robust, well-executed clinical studies investigating their effects on skincare. Consuming collagen peptides orally may facilitate their delivery and absorption through the digestive tract into the bloodstream. Compared to topical application, this should result in increased efficacy of the desired collagen-stimulating effect.
While strong, definitive evidence does not yet exist to support routinely recommending dietary collagen peptide supplements, we do know that they are considered very safe and may offer benefits beyond anti-aging, including for bone and joint health. Still, it’s a good idea to run any new dietary supplement by your doctor.
Whether you plan to use peptides in the form of serums, cleansers, moisturizers, or masks, here are a few helpful tips to keep in mind. Most are gentle enough for twice-daily use; however, to get the most out of your product, avoid applying at the same time as certain actives, such as AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids), as acids break down proteins and may make your peptide serum or cream less effective. During the day, seal everything in with a sunscreen as the final step to finish off your sequence.
Peptides are exciting for a number of reasons. For one, we understand their mechanism of action and how they very elegantly work to support countless biological functions. Researchers are constantly developing new and innovative ways to apply this knowledge, and we are now at a point where peptides have comfortably solidified their position as a sought-after skincare ingredient.
However, setting expectations is part of my job, and it would be overly optimistic to think peptides alone could be as effective as older, better-studied anti-aging ingredients. Though peptides are no replacement for workhorses like retinoids, antioxidants, and sunscreen, I do believe they can complement any existing skincare routine.
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